Notes: Victorian dresses

I'm planning ahead for next year, hopefully me and Chad can afford to participate in a Dickens Christmas. I'm looking at 1880s because that is the Simplicity pattern I already have.

Dress for Tall Stacks: Tall Stacks is a celebration of the steamboat era/Victorian times. Nice overview by the decades.

Antique and Vintage clothing for Sale A few items in this group I'd like to recreate:

Maroon velvet dress

Sherlock Holmes plaid woman's coat

Gold brocade and ivory silk evening gown: mainly interested in the sleeve varation. My pattern is sleeveless, but I don't want to freeze.

Lavender evening gown 1890s

Walking Gown with matching jacket: a good alternative gown idea if the evening gown doesn't work out due to weather.

The Copper taffeta: like the sleeve variation

Reproduction Victorian Dress for Sale, some items I'm interested in:

Peacock blue ball gown

Iced purple evening gown: sleeves! Okay so it's really cold this winter.

Gold and velvet tafetta: and more sleeves.

Article on the Victorian Christmas season and fashion expectations

Victorian trivia articles

Shooting Star History: recreated bustle dresses

Visiting Dress 1880s: I like the stlye of that whole ensemble, maybe in a different color?

Victoriand and Edwardian patterns from Patterns in Time no men's patterns, odd.

Overview of both men and women's Victorian fashion

Demode's pictures of Victorian clothing

Picture of an evening fur coat

Worth dress: like the color combination

Gold evening gown: love the way this drapes

Three gowns: love the colors

Men's Victorian garb

What Victorians Wore another article

Articles on Victorian garb from GBACG

Project: Granuaile's Garb: Fabric

Fabrixx Outlet had a remnent sale and I went on Saturday for the sole purpose of finding doublet fabric for Granuaile. I'm using a green color scheme and a saffron dyed shirt for Ireland.

What I ended up walking out with two green pattern peices (peices being 2 yard remnents of upholstery width fabric). If they end up being too modern designs, I grabbed a green corderouy. I also got a light blue-green of drapery silk, heavy stuff, a really close to carnation in what Chad thinks in a linen, and a gold satin-like material that I was considering for trim or lining if I do slash-and-puff sleeves on the doublet.

Heady idea, wearing your money on your sleeve more or less. I'm just glad I'm not a regular participant in the royal court.

Project: DTD Post 3

Note to the one soul actually reading this blog: Yes, I know I skipped Post Two, but I think I have notes for it at home and will add it later.

This weekend I finally had Chad's help and we stuffed the dummy. I put the final layer on Sunday.







She did end up an inch off in spots, which the instructions say time to rearrange stuffing. And Chad still insists the boobies aren't right. But for my first try and for the sake of getting something that will make my life easier, she's perfect.

And this is the shortened version. When the shell went down to my mid-thighs, I see why occassionally strangers ask me when the baby is due. See Intentionally Left Blank for my next step to deal with that.

Project: DTD Post 2

Back to Amy and Kenn's to work on taping me up for the dummy. Unfortunately, I didn't write any notes on the event. It took much longer than I had anticipated. And I ended up giving Chad a sore shin since I kept kicking him for inappropriate comments in the same spot on his leg.

Project: DTD Post 1

With some down time at work, I browsed the GSFBCG's site and saw a link to an article on how to create a dressmaker's dummy of your very own. I've been wanting one, but have read the horror stories of the bought versions (i.e. they don't match you and the clothes don't fit either) and couldn't afford it anyway.

That link led to a Threads Magazine article "Clone Yourself a Fitting Assistant". That article led me to Leanna Studios, where I can get detailed instructions for $7. Most of the people who offered comments on the process stayed under $55 for the materials, said it was a breeze to make, and has worked for their clothes.

The project for the weekend. Course I'll have to make another one for the corset and if I lose weight. Another thing I noticed nearly every female said their Duct-Tape Double was great incentive to lose weight.

Project: Capt. Kate's Red Outfit: the Shirts Post 4

Considering what I'm working on will actually go into one of the 14th Century outfits, using this project title is rather confusing. But until I get the material to start on something else, it will have to do.

The brown paper for the pattern does not work. My boyfriend suggested some type of plastic that I can't remember the name of. I want something more durable than the tissue paper; I'm rough on patterns. Plus the cat.

Today became a sewing day by accident. Chad--the boyfriend--and I got invited to a sewing party at Kenn and Amy's. They are helping some friends new to RenFaire cast get their garb ready. We packed the current projects and headed over.

New current project is Chad wants a coathardie--14th century garb. Problem is Period Patterns are evil. I spent hours just trying to make heads and tails out of their tissue paper and cutting that out. Come to find out most of the reviews on the Great Pattern Review for this company fall under "Not Recommended." Amy had used one of their pattern too, and hated it.

Once I was done with that, I could move onto the ankle-length chemise. I decided since this will be part of one of the 14th Century ensembles, I should go with a simple neck hole. After that was cut out, I got the gussets sewed to the sleeves and the sleeves sewed to the body of the chemise. I was worried because the amount of material for the sleeves seemed so short, but it's fitting my short arms fine so far. [INSERT PHOTO HERE]

Project: Capt. Kate's Red Outfit: the Shirts Post 3

I don't have the money for linen roght now, probably won't until August. So I decided to go ahead and do a mock-up that could be used in another ensemble. I have also bought a digital camera, but am now having picture hosting issues. The pictures will come back soon. I promise.

The directions created by the Smock Generator assume you'll be putting this directly on your fabric. I'm going to draw it on paper since I'll be making multiple versions.

The problem with the brown paper is it curls badly. So much for hoping that I wouldn't need to pin the pattern paper to the material. I saved paper by drawing all three lengths on the same sheet, but I decided to start with the ankle-length chemise if I had enough fabric.


I found enough in this green that's probably a cotton/polyester blend. The polyester makes it not fire-safe, but I can probably use the finished chemise as one of the 14th century gowns if it turns out well. Besides I have to use this fabric up before I can justify buying more.


My cat Mustard helping. If he helps this much on other projects, he may end up watching from the cat carrier. Locking him up in another room won't work, the only room with a latchable door is the sewing room.


I've figured out one good thing about commercial patterns, using the material fold takes up less floor space.



The only thing I'm unsure of while facing cutting the fabric is the neck hole. I want a collar with a small ruff and those instructions are not provided by the Elizabethan Smock Generator.

Problem for the next sewing session. I ended this one after cutting the fabric.

Blog Maintenance: New naming format

I just went through a slew of dress diaries. I'm not going to critique their writing, just bare in mind what I liked and didn't for this one.

I can't do anything about blog "new posts on top" format. Yes, it is the most tiresome thing in the world. What I promise to do is as I finish a project to go back and edit the entries so you can follow the links through them. So eventually I will be adding a "Completed Projects" section to the Sidebar to start a reader off. Okay, I'm ambitious, nothing wrong with that.

Secondly, the dress diaries overload prompted me to change the titles of the entries. "Project: Project Name: Part Working on #" will be the title format for the bulk of the entries. These will be the entries concentrating on the sewing work. "Notes: Description" are links and pictures I found useful or think will be potential useful and needed a place to keep them. If you're just interested in how the project turned out, you can avoid these side trips. Any titles that do not conform will be site specifics or a life update, which a reader can also feel free to skip. Unless you get confused and need an explanation like this.

Notes: Articles I've found interesting

http://www.sempstress.org/techniques/waistbands.shtml Construction of Women's Gown

http://www.sempstress.org/techniques/fitting.shtml A Fitting Concern

http://www.sempstress.org/techniques/eyelets.shtml Binding Eyelets.

http://www.sempstress.org/resources/beginners.shtml Beginners

http://www.sempstress.org/resources/tips.shtml Tips

http://www.sempstress.org/resources/faq.shtml FAQs

http://www.sempstress.org/resources/velvetpeasants.shtml The Velvet Peasant

http://www.sempstress.org/resources/varietyrant.shtml Variety rant

http://www.sempstress.org/patterns/math/skirtlength.shtml Skirt length

http://www.sempstress.org/patterns/math/skirtlengthworksheet.shtml Worksheet to figure out skirt length

Notes: Corset

Research started on May 19, 2005

I want to make myself an Effigy-style corset. Most who have worn have praised how comfortable and how much support it has.

http://costume.dm.net/corsets/materials.html

Period fabrics:

• linen


• silk

Modern equivalents:

• "duck"/"drill" cotton canvas


• "bridal"/"baroque" satin looks closest to period but slippery to sew


• shot silk was used in Elizabethan times


• silk if used should have the same weight as the baroque satin or taffeta

Period boning:

• dried reeds


• stiff rope - http://www.sempstress.org/experiments/cordedeffigy.shtml


• broomstraw


• hemp - http://homepage.mac.com/festive_attyre/research/cording/cord.html

Modern boning:

• spring steel boning - expensive


• timber strapping - round ends with tin snips and file smooth. Use a tin punch to punch holes in them and sew them to the corsets to prevent working its way out. (Didn't do this with "Shakespeare in Love" bodice and have this issue.)
  
• cable ties - http://www.sempstress.org/patterns/drafting/corsets.shtml don't rust


• http://modehistorique.com/elizabethan/boningtypes.html Article on boning types

Grommets:

• Sew over regular grommets


• http://www.myladyswardrobe.com/04_sewing_chamber/16thcent_effigy_corset/effigycorset_part2.htm recommends jewelry jump rings sew in for metal reinforcement.


• http://www.sempstress.org/patterns/drafting/corsets.shtml does not recommend "Dritz" brand. She says use grommets from hardware that you have to hammer in.

http://costume.dm.net/corsets/howsew.html General sewing directions of three different styles. Recommends if outer material is flimsy, add another layer of studier fabric between outer and lining. Boning will go between two inner layers.

http://www.vertetsable.com/demos_corset.htm Building a German style and English style corset. English is based off Effigy corset. Talks about how to draft the pattern according to your measurements.

http://costume.dm.net/effigy.htm Article on recreating Effigy corset with broomstraw boning and leather trim. Recommends adjusting the point.

http://homepage.mac.com/festive_attyre/gallery/linens/undies.html A Festive Attyre's undies page, pretty much pretty pictures of things I want to make.

http://modehistorique.com/elizabethan/effigy.html Sarah Goodman's first Effigy corset.

http://modehistorique.com/elizabethan/secondeffigy.html Sarah Goodman's second Effigy corset, wash 'n wear.

http://costume.dm.net/ruffmake.html#easy Making ruffs.

http://homepage.mac.com/festive_attyre/research/lacing/lacing.html Spiral lacing.

http://www.myladyswardrobe.com/ Re-enactor's site.

http://www.sock-dreams.com/_shop/edit/index.php SOCKS! As long as I could want.

http://costume.dm.net/EffigyReconstruction.htm Effigy corset reconstruction article.

http://www.sempstress.org/experiments/curvedcorset.shtml Curved Front corset. A style I might want to try out.

Project: Granuaile's Garb: Pattern

Chad wants me to use this pattern: http://www.reconstructinghistory.com/patterns/dungiven.html. I'm waiting for a response from the Costume Coordinator.

She said yes to the doublet and said to avoid the trews. So it looks like I'm buying a pattern once I get the money for it.

Project: Granuaile

I decided to take a vacation from RenFaire this year, and Pennsic was put on hold again. Which means that the time limit has just lifted, good thing considering how much time I've had to work on garb in the last five months.

But I now have to add a different outfit to be Grace O'Malley for the School Days.

http://www.pendragoncostumes.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=pendragon&Category_Code=sea_queen

This really feels too close to what I'm already doing with Captain Kate.

Pictorial evidence? Apparantly she never sat down to have her portrait taken--probably too busy raiding ships. What I have found that looks best to base garb from:

A engraving of the meeting between Granuaile and Queen Elizabeth, no proof of when it was done. http://www.rowfant.demon.co.uk/womenandthesea.htm

What a museum in Ireland has come up with. http://www.piratequeen.org/seafaring_women.htm

Same museum, different shot. Tights? http://www.graceomalley.com/gallery.html

Statue Anne Chambers helped with in Ireland. http://www.graceomalley.com/gallery.html

What a song describes her wearing during the visit with Queen Elizabeth. http://www.rootsweb.com/~nwa/grace.html

I think I'm going to need help with this.

http://members.tripod.com/cathreese/DefiantWomen/pirates/granuaile.html has a picture of the O'Malley crest as well as landscape shots.

http://www.omalley-clan.org/uow/omalley_web/granuaile.htm

http://www.irish-society.org/Hedgemaster%20Archives/granuaile.htm This one has pronunciation guide.

http://www.cindyvallar.com/pirates.html She has an article on Grace, but I want to look over the rest of the site.

http://www.graceomalley.com/index.html Anne Chamber's site--I'm always looking for it.

Bought Ready Made: Black Leather Bodice

I bought a new leather bodice at Bay Area Renaissance Festival March 26. So now I only need to sew one and maybe a stomacher for the leather bodice.



Picture taken in Oct. 2005.

Project: Capt. Kate's Red Outfit: Shirts Post 2

THE SHIRTS

Well it took two days before I was able to complete my measurements. Each shirt will need 1 1/3 yards of 45-inch wide fabric. Mid-calf chemise takes 2 1/3 yards of 45-inch wide fabric. And I went ahead and figured on an ankle length. It could double as a 14th Century gown. Ankle-length chemise needs 3 yards of 45-inch wide fabric.

Now it's digging through the fabric pile and shopping time.

You'll notice too that I have added some more sewing projects. My boyfriend wants to do 14th Century for some of his garb and it's only nice that I match. But I think it will also help me with recreating Eowyn's refugee dress. The other projects are things I reminded myself I need to or would like to sew some time in the near future.

Project: Capt. Kate's Red Outfit: Shirts

THE SHIRTS

First I need to figure out how much material I need to buy. Looking at my project list, I should also buy enough to cover the two chemises I need for other garb. So I want to construct two high-neck shirts, one high-neck chemise, and one low-neck chemise.

To give me a starting point, I'm using the Elizabethan Smock Pattern Generator. I brought my measuring tape to work, but I'm not willing to have everyone question me on it.

Project: Capt. Kate's Red Outfit

Okay, I know I'm thinking about this instead of the climax of the Hyrueliana because I'm procrastinating. Well, the story needs to percolate some more and this has to be done as well. I'll probably end up starting another blog over it with my need to document: The Garb Closet, I like that for a title. I don't want to be pretentious since garb creation is a low rung on my ladder of hobbies.

I glanced through my online photo album. I have very few good pictures of pirate captain's garb, and none of the ones online have the skirt which I consider the intregal part of this outfit. And I can't draw, and since I'm at work and can't even take pics with my lousy digital camera. I'll spare readers and try to post as many photos as I can to illustrate.

*Time lapse while I attempt to sketch. Return to commentary silently cussing.* I need to invest in paper dolls. I can't draw anything resembling a humanoid shape with any symmatry. Ah! Thank you, Elizabethan Costuming Page. Apparantly, other people have issues with human figures and supplied stock figures to trace and draw on top of. Huzzah!

Using a supplied figure, I have now managed to draw an approximation of what I want the garb to look like. Karen Dick that drew the figure put her in boots, thanks! What's going to be fun is coloring all the layers once I get home. Okay, so I'll play with it in PaintShop first.

The idea I want to convey with this outfit: this is what Captain Kate thinks dressing up is. She was raised by pirates, what do you expect? She is putting her best foot forward in hopes of gaining a ship and a letter of marque from the king.

Here's the colored ideal. Save your comments on my drawing skills. I know that looks like slops (otherwise known as pumpkin pants) but it's a skirt really. And after spending hours erasing in PaintShop, I've decided all other plans will have the separate layers traced on tracing paper and then colored and scanned.


In planning this outfit, I need to consider each layer. Ignoring underwear, the first is a shirt. This is one that I have been wearing as part of pirate captain ensemble since 2003. Since the doublet collar is high and the collars on the shirts I have drive me nuts, I want to sew two shirts. Yes, two, nothing makes a difference like putting on a clean shirt during a two day RenFaire event and you have to wear the same garb.


Next layer is the corset. I used one last year and decided that it made everything simpler with the doublet layer. Unfortunately last year's corset won't survive year two.

Boots: our local cobbbler has to fix the laces but I have at least another year left in them. And I put them here because if I don't put them on at this point it become hard as hell to do it later.

Next layer is breeches. These are handmedowns from my boyfriend and nothing's wrong with them. Well, nothing other than the non-period pockets. But the skirt covering them should cub my instint to stick my hands in them.


Final layer is two parts: the skirt and the doublet.

The skirt is actually ankle length of red cotton. I keep it permanently gathered up and held in place by my belt (actually safety pins in the waistband). All I need to do is add trim, sew the tucks at the waistband, and give it a sturdy fastner.

The doublet will have to be sewn from scratch. I bought all the supplies last year, and haven't used them on anything else. I'm planning on using Simplicity #5574 View A as my starting point, but I will need to do a lot of fitting to get it sized right.